• I’ve been working on my 2001 XJ’s brake lines for a while now on and off ever since I trusted a shop to get the job done and was disappointed with the work. I’ve been replacing the hard lines, soft lines, and parking brake lines, which has been difficult though doable. I purchased a pre-formed brake line kit which, while saves time, is not without its quirks.

    Safety first

    Wear eye and ear protection. You do not want rust in your eyes and ears.

    Tie up your hair or wear a hat.

    Wear gloves. Brake fluid is very bad for your skin and your XJ’s aging paint; wipe it off immediately.

    Support the Jeep on both axles using jack stands or use wheel chocks and do one axle at a time. Do not rely on a jack alone.

    Getting started

    If your existing brake calipers, rotors, and drums are in good shape, you may reuse them. I recommend new hardware for a complete and quicker job.

    Leave your old brake lines in place as a visual reference until the new ones are clipped in and connected.

    Disassembly

    • Loosen the lug nuts before lifting the vehicle in the air.
      • If the XJ is already on jack stands, you can try engaging 4WD-Low to add resistance, then try removing the lugs.
      • If 4WD-Low does not engage, return the vehicle to the ground and loosen the lugs.
      • Do not attempt to shift into 4WD-Low with the vehicle running off the ground as this can damage your transmission and transfer case.

    Give yourself work room

    Once you are ready, some preparatory work is needed. To have the most work room available, disconnect and remove the following where possible:

    • Battery
    • Airbox
    • Vacuum lines running to intake manifold
    • Vacuum line running to airbox
    • A/C lines
    • A/C drier

    If you are also replacing your rear parking brake lines, you may also cut the parking brake cables at the rear of the parking brake equalizer and on the rear of the backing plate. Do not cut the parking brake cable running to the front of the vehicle unless you are ready to remove the center console. Once cut, remove the metal parking brake wire from the sheathing. To remove the remaining pieces of the line, a 13mm wrench will fit over the compression fitting. While not necessary, cutting the line and removing the cable core made it easier to remove on my vehicle.

    Master cylinder

    If the master cylinder is original, replace it now to prevent contaminating your new lines with old brake fluid, rust, and sediment.

    Steps to bench bleed your Master Cylinder:

    1. Install the bench bleed plugs into the ports on your master cylinder
    2. Mount the master cylinder securely so that it is horizontal and will not move.
    3. Using a dowel or a plastic push tool, gently depress the cylinder piston up to ~1″ of travel. Do not exceed this as you may damage internal seals.
    4. Hold the piston inward for about 10 seconds and gently release the tension. Do not do this too quickly as it can cause cavitation & bubbles.
    5. Once the piston feels very firm and can no longer be moved beyond ~1/8″, you may install the master cylinder into your vehicle. Leave the bench bleed plugs installed until you are ready to bleed your vehicle’s brakes.

    Front lines

    These runs are tight, especially on the passenger side. If your A/C is discharged, removing the lines and drier creates space; the steps below assume you can.

    Driver side

    • Follow the factory path around the steering shaft.
    • Pass the new line through the top fender hole.
      • Replace the grommet if yours shows any signs of dry rot.
    • Connect the new line to the caliper soft line; new hardware is recommended.
    • Remove the old driver side line from the proportioning valve.
    • Connect and hand-tighten the new line to the proportioning valve.
      • The line will only fit in the correct hole, so don’t worry about picking the wrong one.
    • Cut and remove the old line, taking care to not nick your new line.

    Passenger side

    • Start at the left side of the firewall. The line will come in two halves.
    • Route the new line through the top fender hole.
      • Replace the grommet if dry rotted.
    • Clip into the OEM retaining clips as you route the line.
    • From the driver side, route the line behind the factory ground and vacuum lines. Clip into OEM retaining clips as you route the line.
    • Connect and hand-tighten the two line halves at the passenger side firewall. You may need to make minor bends.
    • Remove the old passenger side line from the proportioning valve
    • Connect and hand-tighten the new line to the proportioning valve.
      • The line will only fit in the correct hole, so don’t worry about picking the wrong one.
    • Cut and remove the old line, taking care to not nick your new line.

    Rear Lines

    Rear soft line

    The rear soft line will often be seized in place on the support bracket. First, I used snips to cut the hard line at the fitting to the soft line. I then cut the soft line flush with the U clip using an oscillating saw, then used a chisel to hammer the remaining pieces off.

    At the axle, the line is secured in place by the axle breather tube. Remove the brake line by loosening the axle breather. The axle breather is supposed to spin, but it may be seized. PB Blaster may help. If not, the axle breather tube is flexible and can be spun without much care.

    To install the new line, connect a new U clip and latch the new line in place.

    Rear center line

    The rear central hard line is tricky.

    • Route the line up through the engine bay from the bottom of the vehicle. A second person is valuable for this part.
    • Ensure the line is routed around the steering shaft, following the OEM routing.
    • Once routed, disconnect the OEM line from the proportioning valve and connect the new line finger-tight.
    • Retain the factory spacer for the rear center line and the front left line. This prevents the lines from touching.
      • If you do not have this or it breaks, you can get creative with zip ties or foam.
    • Route the line above the rear parking brake equalizer.
      • If you do not, you may need to remove the equalizer assembly to clip the line in place.
      • If your equalizer is stuck to the frame, consider removing the line and trying again.

    Rear axle lines

    Passenger rear line

    The passenger side rear axle line is caged in place. My vehicle had two bolts, despite having three bolt holes on the cage. Once the cage is removed, you can route the new line to follow the old line.

    • Disconnect the old line from the wheel cylinder
      • Remove the old cylinder if replacing
    • Connect the new line to the wheel cylinder
      • Do this before mounting the cylinder if replacing
    • Install the brake line cage over the brake line
    • Connect the new line to the rear axle soft line
      • You may need to bend the line a bit to get it to fit properly.

    Driver rear line

    • Disconnect the old line from the wheel cylinder
      • Remove the old cylinder if replacing
    • Connect the new line to the wheel cylinder
    • Connect the new line to the rear axle soft line

    Passenger rear parking brake cable

    • Cut the parking brake cable near the backing plate
    • Cut the parking brake cable near the equalizer
    • Remove the metal line
    • Use a 13mm wrench or socket to release the retaining clips and remove the cable
    • Route the new cable above the leaf spring
    • Connect the new cable to the left side of the equalizer

    Driver rear parking brake cable

    • Cut the parking brake cable near the backing plate
    • Cut the parking brake cable near the equalizer
    • Remove the metal line
    • Use a 13mm wrench or socket to release the retaining clips and remove the cable
    • Remove the bolt closing the retainer on the axle differential and remove the cable
    • Place the new cable in the retainer and tighten. You can replace the retainer if desired.
    • Route the new cable above the leaf spring
    • Connect the new cable to the right side of the equalizer

    What’s Next

    I still have yet to bleed the brakes, mount the rear soft line to the bracket with the U-clip, and install the rear drums along with the necessary hardware. I’ll update this post when the time comes and add some photos.

  • It would be nice if Android had the ability to send low battery notifications intermittently, similar to when a smoke detector is dying or when you have low health in a video game like The Legend of Zelda. For example, having it make the “Low Battery” sound every ~30 minutes or whenever the screen wakes would be neat.

  • Let’s play Better than Adventure!

    Better than Adventure! is a Minecraft modpack that envisions what Minecraft would’ve been like if the Adventure Update never happened. In this video series, we’re diving blind into Better than Adventure!

    In this episode, we’re getting settled into our ugly eucalyptus house.

    Download the modpack at https://www.betterthanadventure.net/

  • Minecraft is aging. First released in mid-2009 to the public, the game quickly gained popularity through 2010 and into 2011. By gaining exposure through a then-young YouTube, Minecraft’s popularity continued to skyrocket thanks to its extensibility through mods, single-player adventure maps, Let’s Plays, and multiplayer servers each featuring a unique experience offered through a unique set of plugins.

    I was 14 when I first launched Livecraft back in the summer of 2011. This Minecraft server has been a large part of my life for nearly half of my life at the time of writing. Over the years, my goals for the server shifted from being a profitable job to being a community I cared for. We changed focus from being a survival server to a creative server, factions, PvP, and ultimately settled on survival/creative. Throughout its history, Livecraft depended upon various plugins as well as server software, some of which are no longer available to download.

    Prompted by feelings of nostalgia as well as desiring simple game play, I recently launched a version of the Livecraft server running Minecraft Beta 1.7.3. When looking for plugins for this server, I quickly realized that there was a problem. Many plugins were either discontinued, migrated to a newer host, or were lost as part of GitHub & Bukkit changes. The primary reasons a plugin may now be missing include:

    • GitHub removing the Downloads tab
    • Bukkit Dev replacing the Bukkit Plugins & Bukkit Forums > Plugins sections
    • CurseForge acquiring Bukkit Forums, causing many links to break during the migration
    • Developers hosting their files on Dropbox & later deleting these files
    • Wolverness DMCA strike against Bukkit in 2014

    Given that Minecraft is so culturally important and is now a game that has transcended generations, I feel it is crucial to back up these plugins somewhere that they can be accessed indefinitely. To facilitate this, I have created The Bukkit Archive. The purpose of The Bukkit Archive is similar to that of OmniArchive – to preserve content that is at risk of being lost to time. In order to ensure that The Bukkit Archive stands the test of time, I have chosen not to host the files on any personal servers & instead serve files through archive.org. Functionally, thebukkitarchive.org is a frontend for files hosted by The Internet Archive. The goal is to provide a way to search for plugins & server files.

    As time goes on, it becomes increasingly important that we preserve what matters to us. In my case, I am passionate about Minecraft as my hobby of tinkering with Minecraft lead to quite a bit of change in my life, including my career and relationship. Minecraft is a game that transcends generational gaps as well as age barriers. The Minecraft community has made the game what it is today. Without the modding & plugin development community, I am not entirely sure Minecraft would have made it as far as it did. I feel it is crucial that we preserve this history.

  • Spotify Wrapped! Could someone explain where Spotify gets these “genre” names? lol

  • illogical

    @alfonsojon Fedora is the RedHat beta OS though, right?

    July 1, 2024, 2:02 am 0 boosts 0 favorites

    @illogical Sort of, Red Hat Enterprise Linux is based on Fedora repositories but isn't necessarily a beta for RHEL

  • illogical

    What's the best distro right now? Going to put it on a Lenovo hopefully.

    June 23, 2024, 8:19 pm 0 boosts 1 favorites

    @illogical I would choose between Fedora 40 KDE Spin & Debian 12 KDE, depending on your software needs. Personally I am running Debian 12 KDE since I need stability & software compatibility.

  • In November of 2022, I acquired a 2001 Jeep Cherokee XJ with just about 185,000 miles and in need of some TLC. I’ve always found myself fascinated by the Jeep Cherokees, and have always wanted to purchase one. I like how simple they are, how relatively easy they are to work on, and how reliable they are known for being. That said, after over 20 years on the road and 185,000 mi, this car is definitely showing its age and is in need of quite a bit of work to become a daily driver. I have no intention of making this an off-road first vehicle, and instead would like to focus on daily comforts and features. Ultimately, I’d like for this car to be my daily driver for shorter trips, for winter, and for camping.

    The Problems

    This XJ has a number of issues, which I’ll quickly outline here:

    • Engine knock on cold start
    • Exhaust leak
    • Rust
      • Doors are too far gone for me to want to fix
      • Tailgate is too far gone for me to want to fix
      • Rear quarter panels behind bumper end caps are rotted out
      • Rear uniframe is in need of repair near fuel neck filler hole
      • Rocker panels are bubbling
    • A/C does not work
    • Heater core is leaking, jammed blend door (dried coolant)
    • Minor coolant leak near radiator
    • Driver-side window regulator is dying
    • Driver-side window lockout is broken, preventing passengers from rolling their windows down and up
    • Missing gas tank exhaust hanger
    • Fuel gauge doesn’t work properly below ¼ tank
    • Tailgate mechanism is stubborn due to rust
    • Needs brakes
    • Needs e-brake to be adjusted
    • 4WD is noisy – fluid is likely ancient and in need of change
    • Spark plugs and wires need done
    • U-joints likely need replacement
    • Unhappy with existing light bar installation
    • Dim headlights
    • Broken fog lights
    • Missing fuel tank shield & exhaust hanger

    The Goal

    I have intentions of slowly chipping away at the problem list one junk yard/Rock auto purchase at a time. First on the docket is the heater core, window regulator, and brakes. With these, the car will be fully operable again, for a short time anyway. Ultimately, I’d like to protect the XJ in areas it is prone to damage while also improving the safety of it.

    Immediately:

    • New spark plugs and coil pack – done
    • Window regulator for driver – done
    • Driver’s window switch assembly – done
    • Replace fog lights – done
    • Upgrade to aftermarket headlight wiring harness – done (will post details separately)
    • Brakes – WIP
    • Heater core/AC evaporator/Blend door & clean HVAC assembly
    • Install AJ’s Offroad Armor Tanker Tire Carrier rear bumper
    • Install Rusty’s Rear Corner Cut Panels – WIP

    200,000 miles:

    Whenever:

    • Headliner
    • Carpet
    • Check out the floor pans and cry
    • Air conditioning
    • Replace fuel pump
    • Frame stiffeners for rear of vehicle

    The Upgrades

    Audio

    Stereo

    Joying 8.8″ Stereo: https://www.amazon.com/JOYING-Android-Universal-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B08K36DPLH

    Subwoofer Enclosure

    Body

    Interior

    • Heated mirrors
    • Heated seats

    Electrical

    Headlight Harness

    K Suspension offers an affordable harness which routes your XJ’s headlight power directly to your headlights, preventing the interior switch from having to handle the amperage of your headlights. There is a higher quality version of this from Jeep Cables, but I found the K Suspension harness was perfectly adequate. https://www.ksuspensionfab.com/store/p6/H4_Upgraded_Headlight_Harness.html

    XJ “Big 7” cable upgrade

    The cables in my XJ are tired and asking to be replaced. I have already had to make emergency repairs once, so I will be replacing them with the “Big 7 Kit” from Jeep Cables. https://www.jeepcables.com/products/xj-big-7-complete-kit-cherokee-87-01

    Headlights

    I am going against better wisdom and am looking at this headlight set because they look cool. They probably aren’t the best. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWBXB4TT/

    Drivetrain